Cold weather brings a whole new set of challenges if you own an RV. Freezing temperatures, snow, and ice can cause real headaches if you aren’t prepared. I’ve learned from experience that skipping winter prep can lead to broken pipes, water damage, and a lot of frustration when you’re ready to hit the road for spring adventures.
Winterizing your RV is all about protecting your investment from harsh weather so you avoid unpleasant (and often expensive) surprises come spring. Whether you’re storing your RV outside, in a covered lot, or just parking it in the driveway, there are a handful of really important steps to make sure it weathers the winter just fine. By winterizing, you save yourself costly repairs and ensure your next adventure gets a smooth start without extra hassle.
This guide covers everything you need to know to winterize your RV confidently, even if it’s your first time. You’ll get all-in-one instructions, tips, and a few personal tips that make the process a lot smoother and less stressful.
Step 1: Know Why Winterizing Matters
Freezing temperatures cause the water in your RV’s plumbing system to expand, making pipes and tanks crack or split. It’s not just about the pipes either. Leftover water in the tanks and water heater can do a lot of damage. Seals, batteries, and even the fridge can take a hit if you skip winter prep.
Common Winter Risks for RVs:
- Cracked water lines and fittings from frozen water
- Burst water heater, toilet, and holding tanks
- Mold and mildew from trapped moisture
- Weather and rodent damage when stored outside
- Battery drain and dead appliances
I’ve seen folks pay hundreds for repairs in the spring just because they left water in the wrong line or didn’t seal up entry points. It’s way less hassle to spend a little time winterizing now.
Step 2: Get Your Supplies Ready
Before getting started, it’s smart to have the right supplies on hand. You don’t need anything fancy, but these essentials make the whole process a lot smoother. Here’s what I keep nearby for a typical winterizing job:
Winterization Essentials:
- RV/non-toxic antifreeze (pink stuff, not automotive)
- Water heater bypass kit (if not already installed)
- Tank flushing wand or hose
- Basic hand tools (wrench, screwdriver)
- Air compressor and blow-out plug (optional but handy)
- Gloves and towels for spills
Some folks use an air compressor to blow out lines instead of filling everything with antifreeze. Both strategies work, and I’ll break down both so you can pick what fits your setup and comfort level.
Step 3: Drain the Water System Completely
This part is crucial. Any water left in pipes, fittings, or appliances can freeze and crack, so it’s worth double-checking every drain point.
Steps to Drain Water from Your RV:
- Turn off the water heater and let it cool. Never drain a hot water tank!
- Open all faucets (hot and cold) and let them run until no water comes out.
- Drain the fresh water tank using the lowpoint drain (often found underneath the RV).
- Empty the gray and black holding tanks at a dump station. Give them a good rinse.
- Undo the drain plug on the water heater and remove the anode rod to let it fully drain.
- Locate and open lowpoint drains for the hot and cold water lines.
Check your owner’s manual for where all the drain points are hiding. Sometimes they’re in surprising places! I always prop open the faucets and showerhead while draining so air flows through. This helps flush out all leftover water.
Step 4: Bypass the Water Heater
If you plan to use RV antifreeze, you want it in the lines, but not sitting in your water heater. Most newer RVs already have a water heater bypass valve. If yours doesn’t, you can buy a kit at any RV parts store and install it yourself in just a few minutes.
How the Bypass Works:
- The bypass reroutes water flow around the water heater.
- Prevents gallons of antifreeze from sitting in your water heater tank.
Before pumping antifreeze, double-check that the bypass valve is set to “bypass.” It helps keep the water heater ready for next season with less fuss and means you don’t waste a lot of antifreeze.
Step 5: Protect the Water Lines with Antifreeze or Air
There are two main ways to clear out lines: pumping antifreeze through all pipes and appliances, or using compressed air to blow water out. Both work, but I find the antifreeze method is less stressful and gives more peace of mind in really cold climates.
Antifreeze Method:
- Disconnect from outside water sources (city water and hoses).
- If you have a water pump winterizing kit, hook the suction hose into your jug of antifreeze. If not, disconnect the intake side of the pump and feed it in manually.
- Turn on the pump and open each faucet, one at a time, until you see pink antifreeze coming out. Don’t forget the outside shower, toilet, and lowpoint drains.
- Flush the toilet until you see antifreeze, and pour a little into all sink and shower drains to coat ptraps.
Air Compressor Method:
- Attach a blow-out plug to your city water connection.
- Set compressor to 30 to 40 psi. Any higher and you risk damaging your plumbing.
- One by one, open each faucet, valve, and sprayer while blowing air through until no more water comes out.
- Pour a small amount of RV antifreeze down all drains after blowing out the system. This protects the ptraps.
Some folks use a combo of these two, which can be pretty handy for extra reassurance. If you want additional peace of mind, you can pump antifreeze through the lines after blowing them out. This way you get rid of all the remaining water and leave your system well protected.
Step 6: Prep the Interior—Appliances, Bathroom, and Storage
It’s easy to focus on plumbing and forget all the other spots winter weather can sneak in. Taking a little time to winterproof your interior goes a long way in making spring de-winterizing stressfree.
Quick Interior Checklist:
- Remove all food, snacks, and crumbs to keep rodents and bugs away.
- Defrost and clean the fridge/freezer and prop doors open to prevent mold.
- Leave cabinets and closet doors cracked open to promote air circulation.
- Cover vents with screens to keep critters out.
- Remove or prop up cushions and mattresses to let air flow beneath.
Emptying and propping open the fridge is really important to avoid those nasty surprises. I also leave a box of baking soda in there for good measure. Clean out any cabinets and drawers and vacuum any tight spaces where crumbs might be hiding. Sometimes a dryer sheet inside cabinets or under furniture can help keep out unwanted guests.
Step 7: Protect the Exterior and Seal It Up
Your RV’s outside takes a beating during winter too. Snow, rain, and freezing temps can sneak in through tiny cracks or wornout seals. Spending a little extra time on the outside makes a big difference when you come back in spring.
Exterior Prep Tips:
- Wash and dry the exterior. Dirt traps moisture and can cause damage over time.
- Check roof, windows, and door seals for cracks, and repair with RV sealant if needed.
- Cover AC units and vents to prevent snow and leaves from piling up inside.
- Lubricate door locks and hinges so they don’t seize up.
- Install rodent screens over exterior openings like exhaust pipes and vents.
- Use an RV cover—properly fitted—for added protection if storing outside.
I always tape over any gaps or holes, even ones that look tiny. Critters have a way of finding them, especially when they’re looking for a cozy winter home. If you notice any spots that get damp during rain, add a little extra sealant now so you don’t have to deal with leaks in the spring.
Step 8: Take Care of the Batteries and Power
Winter can drain RV batteries fast if you leave them in the cold. Cold temps slow battery chemistry, and phantom draws can kill them before spring. I always remove my batteries and store them somewhere warm and dry.
Battery Storage Tips:
- Remove batteries from the RV if possible (house and chassis batteries).
- Fully charge them before storage and top them up every four to six weeks.
- Store on a wooden pallet or shelf, not directly on concrete.
- If you leave batteries in the RV, disconnect the negative terminal and check them regularly.
Solar panels, if you have them, should be covered or angled so snow slides off. Electronics like the radio, smoke detector, and clock can draw small amounts of power and kill your batteries over time if not disconnected. For plug-in monitors or propane detectors, consider running an extension cord so you can check in every few weeks and make sure the battery charge stays healthy.
Step 9: Prep Tires, Stabilizers, and Leveling Blocks
Flat spots, driedout sidewalls, and rust on moving parts are all pretty common if you leave your RV sitting in the same position for months. A little prep now keeps you rolling smoothly later on.
Storage Prep for Wheels and Landing Gear:
- Inflate tires to the recommended maximum pressure.
- If possible, move the RV a couple feet every month to avoid flat spots.
- Place tire covers or blocks between the tires and ground to protect from sunlight and moisture.
- Extend the stabilizer jacks just enough to take weight off the suspension, but don’t lift the tires completely off the ground.
- Lubricate moving parts and check for rust.
If you can, park on concrete or pavers, not grass or bare dirt, to cut down on moisture issues under the rig. Also, check the leveling blocks are holding up and swap them out if you spot any cracks or weak points. Keeping everything clean and dry will save you hours of maintenance when you’re ready to roll again.
Step 10: Double-Check and Lock Up
Before calling it a day, walk around with your checklist and make sure you didn’t miss anything. It’s surprising how often a step gets forgotten. Lock all entry points, windows, and storage areas to keep out both critters and the occasional curious passerby.
Last-Minute Checks:
- All water has drained and/or lines are full of antifreeze
- Refrigerator, freezer, and pantry are empty and clean
- Batteries are removed or fully disconnected
- Windows and vents are sealed
- RV is locked up and covered
Making a quick checklist for next year with notes (what worked, anything that went wrong) can be super useful. That way, you’re ready for a smoother process next time. Consider snapping a few photos of connections or tricky valves so they’re easier to locate months from now.
Common Winterizing Questions & Troubleshooting
Do I need to use RV antifreeze even if I use air to blow out the lines?
I use both if the weather dips well below freezing. Antifreeze in the drains and ptraps and blowing out the lines gives the best coverage in temps that stay frigid all winter.
Can I just leave my RV plugged in during winter?
Keeping it plugged in can help keep batteries charged and let you use an electric heater, but it’s really important to check for rodents and monitor the inside, as warm interiors attract pests. Even if plugged in, water lines still need to be winterized because most spaces get colder than you expect. Make sure to check battery levels every month or so.
What about tankless water heaters or residentialstyle appliances?
If you’ve upgraded with tankless units or bigger fridges, check the owner’s manuals for winterizing instructions. Sometimes these setups need extra steps or a bit of extra antifreeze in different connections. Double-check unique features like outdoor kitchens or extra wet bays and follow the manufacturer’s advice.
Is it worth paying a pro to do it?
If you’re worried or just want extra confidence everything’s done right, many RV shops offer winterizing services for a reasonable fee. I started by watching a tech do it once, then felt confident enough to handle it solo the next year. Watching a walk-through video for your specific RV model also helps a ton if you want extra guidance.
Winter Checklist & Next Steps
Winterizing your RV takes a little effort, but it’s a job that pays off big time. Each step protects your gear from avoidable hassle and keeps adventure top of mind for next season. Take notes on what works for your rig and keep a printed checklist in your glovebox or “RV binder” so next fall’s prep goes even faster.
Handy Checklist to Print or Screenshot:
- Drain all tanks and lines, including water heater and lowpoints
- Bypass the water heater and fill lines with RV antifreeze (or blow out and protect drains)
- Remove all food, clean fridge, and open up for airflow
- Seal up gaps and check exterior for leaks or cracks
- Pull, charge, and store batteries safely
- Check tires, landing gear, and stabilize the rig
- Lock everything up and cover the RV
If you follow these steps, spring setup is way less work and you’ll be ready to roll with no ugly surprises. Got a winterization story, question, or another tip that’s worked well for your RV? Pop it in the comments and help fellow travelers out. Sharing tips helps everyone cruise through winter with peace of mind and a better adventure next season.
Winter RV care might look like a lot, but when you make it a routine, it can be satisfying to know you’ve protected your investment. You can spend the colder months dreaming of next summer’s road trips, knowing your RV is safe and ready for whatever comes next.